Remember that beading is an individual thing and sometimes there is no "right way" to do something. However, there is some general information that is helpful, especially (but not only) for the beginning beader. I've tried to catalog those things here, although I will continue to add tips over time, so check back occasionally.

Tips

Thread

Most beaders use Nymo or Silamide thread to beadweave. Beadweaving is different than stringing beads and requires a thread that is more flexible and has a softer feel than wire. Nymo and Silamide are both nylon, with high tensile strength, yet the suppleness to weave the most intricate patterns and they come in a variety of colors. They are also considerably less expensive than most beading wires, especially the softer and more flexible ones.

Color

When choosing a color for your project, you need to take several things into consideration. Generally speaking, most authorities recommend that you use black thread for everything but the most pale colored beads. The reason for this is that black thread tends to blend into the background; the eye tends to dismiss black or dark colored thread and allow the beads to be the focus of the piece. However, if you are working a piece that tends to show a lot of thread (some stitches do this more than others), you may want to select a thread color similar to your bead color. This becomes a problem when you are using a variety of colors within the piece. In that case, choose a color that blends with the darker shades. Also, if you are working a piece with transparent beads, the color of the thread will show through the beads, so choose a thread that preserves the bead color as much as possible. This is generally a similar color to the beads or a slightly lighter one, as the darker threads will darken the bead more than the lighter ones lighten it.

Length

The generally accepted definition of a "length" of thread is similar to that of a length of fabric: hold the end of the thread spool in one hand to the midpoint of your chest, then grab the spool or bobbin in your other hand and measure a length by spreading your arm (with the spool or bobbin) out from your body in a horizontal direction (parallel with the ground). When deciding on a length of thread to use while working a project, this becomes a personal choice. A shorter thread becomes tangled less often, and is easier to pull through the beads as you work; you may only need to pull twice to reach the end, whereas with longer threads, you may need to pull through 4 or 5 times until the thread becomes shorter. For these reasons, some beaders prefer to work with no more than 2 lengths of thread (sometimes called a "comfortable length"). However, some beaders detest adding thread to a piece, as the process is time-consuming and often difficult. If there is tension on the piece, adding thread can weaken it, depending on the technique used, so these beaders would rather work with an uncomfortably long thread than have to add thread in the middle of the piece.

Conditioning

All nylon thread needs conditioning. Most commonly used conditioners are Thread Heaven, a silicone conditioner, and wax. What to use is largely a matter of personal preference, but some projects benefit from the added stickiness and stiffness imparted to the thread by microcrystalline wax. This wax is a synthetic beeswax that is hard to find. In the Sacramento area, you can find it at Piece of Mind Bead Studio. It helps to hold the beads in place and helps hold necessary tension in some projects. Although it tends to flake off as you work (it's best to heavily wax your thread), it won't stain your work and brushes off easily. If you still find that it coats the beads, a quick soak in warm water will melt it off; then simply blot your piece dry with a soft towel and let it dry completely.